I have watched a client in Zainab Market Karachi hold up a suit, read "pure georgette - hand embroidered" on the label, and put it down satisfied that she understood what she was buying. She didn't. Neither did I, the first time I encountered those labels. Pakistani fabric labelling has a vocabulary that sounds definitive but operates on entirely different rules from what most buyers assume. This guide goes through the most common terms and what they actually mean - versus what buyers usually think they mean.
Myth 1: "Pure" Means the Fabric Is a Natural Fibre
"Pure georgette" is the most common example of this confusion. When Pakistani buyers read "pure", they hear "natural". But in Pakistani textile labelling, "pure" is a weave and twist specification, not a fibre content claim. Pure georgette refers to the way the yarn is twisted and the fabric is woven - tightly twisted threads creating the characteristic crinkled surface and matte drape. A pure georgette can be 100% polyester and be correctly labelled "pure georgette."
What "pure" actually signals
The "pure" designation in Pakistani fabric terminology means the fabric is woven to a specific construction standard - usually referring to the thread twist count and weave density that produces the characteristically lightweight, textured drape of quality georgette. It is a quality claim about weave construction, not about fibre origin. Genuine pure georgette in polyester is still superior to a loosely woven imitation - "pure" tells you the weave is right, not the fibre.
To know the fibre content, look specifically for "100% polyester", "100% mulberry silk" or "viscose georgette" in the composition section of the label. If the label says only "pure georgette" with no fibre percentage, you do not know the fibre content from the label alone. You need to ask - or test by burning a loose thread. Silk burns like hair and leaves a crushable ash. Polyester melts and leaves a hard black bead. The Alif Laila cultural heritage archive documents the historical development of South Asian textile terminology, including how "pure" entered Pakistani fabric vocabulary through the Mughal-era classification system where "pure" referred to thread twist quality.
Myth 2: "Silk" on a Label Guarantees Mulberry Silk
"Korean silk", "art silk", "China silk" and "Italian silk" are all used on Pakistani fabric labels to describe materials that contain no natural silk fibre. "Korean silk" is a shiny, smooth synthetic - typically polyester or viscose - that mimics the drape and lustre of natural silk without the fibre content. "Art silk" (artificial silk) is a Victorian-era term for rayon that persists in Pakistani textile retail. None of these are silk in the natural-fibre sense.
How to identify genuine silk on a Pakistani label
Genuine mulberry silk labels say "100% pure silk", "100% mulberry silk" or carry a silk mark certification. Sheesha silk - La Soie's primary fabric for formal wear - is a specific weave of genuine silk with a surface treatment that creates its characteristic metallic shimmer. The word "silk" in "sheesha silk" does refer to the natural fibre. But other "silk" labels in Pakistani fashion retail require scepticism.
I apply a simple rule when advising clients at Liberty Market in Lahore: if the silk is priced below PKR 1,200 per metre, it is very unlikely to be natural silk. Genuine mulberry silk at retail in Pakistan starts around PKR 1,800-2,200 per metre for quality fabric. Anything below that price point with "silk" in the name is a synthetic. Price is not the only quality indicator (see Myth 5 below), but it is a reliable floor: natural silk cannot be produced and sold below a certain price point without losing all fibre integrity.
Myth 3: "Hand Embroidered" Means the Embroidery Was Done Entirely by Hand
"Hand embroidered" on a Pakistani garment label can mean anything from fully hand-worked zardozi requiring 300+ artisan hours to a mass-produced machine-embroidered piece where a human moved the fabric through the machine by hand. The term has no regulated legal definition in Pakistani fashion retail. It is a marketing phrase applied inconsistently across a spectrum from genuinely hand-worked to almost entirely machine-produced.
What to look for instead of "hand embroidered"
Look for the specific embroidery technique name: zardozi, mukaish, naqshi, aari, gota, tilla. These technique names are precise and carry genuine information. "Zardozi" means raised three-dimensional goldwork done by hand because the technique cannot be replicated mechanically in its authentic form. "Mukaish" means flat metallic inlay that is hand-applied to individual thread intersections. "Machine embroidery" or "computer embroidery" (sometimes abbreviated as "CK" for computer kari on Pakistani labels) is honest and accurate - it tells you the embroidery was produced by a programmed machine.
The test is simple: tilt the embroidery to a low-angle light source. Hand zardozi casts shadows because it has genuine three-dimensional relief. Machine embroidery is flat. Hand aari chain stitch has slight variations in stitch tension along each line. Machine chain stitch is perfectly uniform. For a full guide to this test, see our guide to identifying genuine zardozi. The Dawn arts and culture section has covered the decline of hand embroidery labelling standards in Pakistani fashion retail - the problem is well-documented and ongoing.
Myth 4: "Dry Clean Only" Tells You the Fabric Is Fragile
"Dry clean only" on a Pakistani formal garment almost always refers to the embroidery, not the base fabric. The underlying sheesha silk or georgette might tolerate a careful hand wash in cold water. The embroidery - especially metallic thread, zardozi wire work or applied gota - will not. The care instruction applies to the most demanding element of the garment, not the average element.
Reading care symbols correctly
Pakistani garment labels often use simplified or non-standard care symbols that do not match the ISO or ASTM international care labelling systems used in Western fashion. A crossed-out washing tub symbol reliably means do not machine wash. Beyond that, specific temperature symbols and cycle symbols on Pakistani labels vary by manufacturer and cannot be assumed to match international standards. When in doubt, the conservative default for any embroidered Pakistani formal piece is professional dry cleaning with a request for hand pressing - never steam pressing at high heat, which can flatten metallic thread embroidery permanently.
Myth 5: Price Is a Reliable Guide to Fabric Quality
Price correlates with quality in Pakistani fashion at the extremes - a PKR 8,000 suit is almost certainly inferior fabric and embroidery to a PKR 45,000 suit. But within the mid-range (PKR 20,000-55,000), price is a poor guide to specific fabric quality because it also reflects brand premium, margin structure, embellishment cost and seasonal positioning. A brand with high marketing spend may charge PKR 40,000 for a polyester georgette suit. A boutique atelier may charge PKR 35,000 for a genuine sheesha silk piece. The price tells you less than the fabric label - which is precisely why reading the label correctly matters.
How to Read the Label Correctly: Quick Reference
| Label says | What it actually means | What to ask/check instead |
|---|---|---|
| Pure georgette | Specific weave construction - not natural fibre | Look for fibre % (polyester / viscose / silk) |
| Korean silk / Art silk | Synthetic fabric with silk-like appearance | Ask for fibre content; genuine silk says "100% mulberry silk" |
| Hand embroidered | Ranges from fully hand-worked to machine-made | Ask for technique name; tilt to light to check 3D relief |
| Dry clean only | The embroidery requires dry cleaning | Note which element is at risk - often the metallic thread, not the fabric |
| Care symbols | May not follow ISO standards | Default to professional dry clean + hand press for all embroidered formal pieces |
| 100% sheesha silk | Genuine natural silk with surface treatment - accurate and specific | Check for characteristic weight and natural shimmer (not plastic-looking) |
Frequently Asked Questions
Does "pure georgette" mean the fabric is good quality?
"Pure georgette" indicates a specific weave construction that produces the characteristic drape and texture of quality georgette - tightly twisted threads, matte surface, slight crinkle. It tells you the fabric was woven correctly, not that it is natural fibre. Pure georgette in high-quality polyester is a legitimate product. Pure georgette in genuine silk is a different product entirely, and the label should specify "pure silk georgette" or show the fibre percentage as "100% silk." The La Soie collection specifies fabric type precisely for each product - pure georgette pieces are described with fibre content rather than leaving the term to do ambiguous work.
How do I know if a Pakistani fabric is genuine silk?
Three tests: label check (look for "100% mulberry silk" or silk mark certification), price floor check (genuine silk is rarely under PKR 1,800/m retail) and the burn test on a loose thread (silk burns like hair, smells of burning protein, leaves a crushable grey ash; polyester melts, smells chemical, leaves a hard bead). Any one of these is suggestive; all three together are reliable.
What does "CK" mean on a Pakistani fabric label?
CK stands for "computer kari" - computer embroidery. It indicates the embroidery was produced by a digitally programmed machine rather than by hand. This is an honest label and common in Pakistani mass-market fashion. Computer kari is not inferior by definition - it is appropriate for certain price points and certain embroidery types. It is different from hand zardozi or aari, and the distinction matters when the price reflects a hand-work premium.
Can I wash a Pakistani suit that says dry clean only?
For printed or lightly embellished suits without metallic thread, a cold gentle hand wash is sometimes possible. For any suit with metallic embroidery, zardozi, mukaish, gota or heavy thread work, dry cleaning is the correct approach - not because the fabric needs it but because the embellishment does. Hot water, agitation and detergent all degrade metallic thread work. The risk is to the embroidery, not to the georgette or silk underneath it.
